Busy Bee Mitts

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by Meredith Ramirez

These mitts were inspired by my best friend and knitting partner Anna, who asked me to knit her some fingerless gloves for her birthday. After I suggested a couple of patterns I had already knitted, she replied with her usual mix of directness and humor: “I want a pattern especially for me.” I knew she was taking a beekeeping class, so what immediately came to mind was a honeycomb. That was how the Busy Bee Mitts were born. It represents not only Anna, but every knitter who finds herself working ever so hard to bring more beauty into the world. If this is your first colorwork project and you’re feeling intimidated by the black “holes” in the pattern, which require catching floats and more attention, feel free to skip them for now until your busy knitting hands have gotten the hang of it. My own busy hands are definitely making a pair for myself!

Yarn

Cascade Heritage Color 5672 True Black (MC) and Koigu KPM Color 2100 (CC)

Yardage: 1 100g skein of Cascade, 437 yards and 1 50g skein of Koigu, 175 yards.

Source: Purl Soho (www.purlsoho.com)

Gauge

Small: 32 sts/40 rows to 4” of Honeycomb Pattern

Medium: 30 sts/40 rows to 4” of Honeycomb Pattern

Large: 28 sts/36 rows to 4” of Honeycomb Pattern

Tools

For all: set of 5 2.00 mm (US 0) double-pointed needles and,

For Small: set of 5 2.75 mm (US 2) double-pointed needles;

For Medium: set of 5 3.00 mm (US 2*) double-pointed needles;

For Large: set of 5 3.25 mm (US 3) double-pointed needles.

* US 2 needles come in two sizes, so do make sure to check on which size you have prior to knitting.

Note: While wood needles have more traction and don’t have as much risk of stitches falling off, they are also much easier to break when they are this thin. I prefer to use metal needles up to Size 3 and used metal to make these gloves without any problems.

Stitch holder or waste yarn and tapestry needle.

Abbreviations

k knit

p purl

m make 1

sl1wyib: slip 1 stitch as if to purl, holding working yarn behind stitch

sl1wyif: slip 1 stitch as if to purl, holding working yarn in front of stitch

Important Notes

First, it’s good to familiarize yourself with the Honeycomb Pattern, which is a repeating pattern in the round that serves as the overall patternf for the mitts. This is what it looks like in both charted form and in written instructions:

Row 1: k3 CC, k1 MC, k2 CC

Row 2: k2 CC, *k1 MC, k1 CC repeat once from*

Row 3: k1 CC, k1 MC, k3 CC, k1 MC

Row 4-6: k1 MC, k5 CC

Row 7: Repeat Row 3

Row 8: Repeat Row 2

Row 9-10: Repeat Row 1

Second, this pattern will require you to catch long floats in your colorwork. For any part of the pattern that requires more than five stitches in one color, catch the unused yarn so that you don’t end up with long loops in the back of your knitting where your fingers can snag. Methods of float catching vary depending on your knitting method, but here is a tutorial from Nicole Hindes for the most common, with the main yarn on the right hand and the contrast yarn on the left:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=is3Fdrap-JM

Right Mitt

CO 52 stitches in MC onto a single needle using the Italian Tubular Cast-on or your preferred method. Here’s a tutorial on the Italian Cast-on from FluffBuff:

http://www.fluffbuff.com/2006/07/tubular_caston_without_the_was_1.html.

Skip this step if you’re using a different cast-on method. But if using the Italian Tubular Cast-on, work the first two rows flat as follows:

Row 1: *k1, sl1wyif, repeat from* to end

Row 2: *k1, sl1wyib, repeat from* to end

Distribute stitches evenly onto 4 smaller DPN’s, 13 stitches to each needle. If you’re uncomfortable purling to begin a row in DPN’s, you can divide 12 stitches, then 14, then 12, then 14. Join, taking care not to twist yarn.

Next round, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Continue working in k1, p1 rib for 11 more rounds. Attach CC and change to larger needles.

Begin colorwork. The Right Mitt Chart shows entire colorwork pattern for the right mitt, indicating the point where you will have to put 19 stitches on a holder or waste yarn for the thumb. Completely dark areas (as opposed to the gray of the MC yarn) indicate blank areas with no stitches). Note that there is a purl in MC at the halfway point and at the end of each row, which creates a false seam that makes the pattern look neater. You will also have to do m1’s as indicated in the chart to increase for the Thumb Gusset.

After completing Row 36 of the chart, work the first 25 stitches of the next row. Then place the next 19 stitches in a holder or use waste yarn (9 stitches plus purl stitch, and 9 stitches on the next needle). Cast on one stitch across gap, then continue knitting chart as written. Knit 25 stitches in chart for the next row then purl the cast-on stitch using MC. Continue purling this stitch using MC for subsequent rows as written in the chart.

After finishing the chart, break off CC and switch to smaller needles.

Rib Preparation Row

Using MC, *k25, p1 repeat from* once.

Work in k1p1 rib for the next five rows.

Bind-off Preparation Rows

Row 1: k1, s1wyif to the end of the row.

Row 2: sl1wyib, p1 to the end of the row.

Use Kitchener or Tubular method to bind-off stitches. An excellent tutorial can be found here:

http://www.savannahchik.com/2006/11/tubular_bindoff.htm

Thumb Ribbing

Divide held stitches onto two needles.

Rib Preparation Row

Using MC and starting with the stitch after the purl stitch (the 11th stitch), k9 and pick up 3 stitches evenly across gap, then k9 and p1 (22 stitches)

Ribbed Thumb Decrease

On the next row, *k1, p1 and repeat from * three times more, ssk, p. Put the next stitch onto second needle and k2tog with the next stitch on that needle. *p1, k1 and repeat from * three times more, p1. (20 stitches)

Work in k1p1 rib for the next four rows.

Thumb Bind-off Preparation Rows

Row 1: k1, s1wyif to the end of the row.

Row 2: sl1wyib, p1 to the end of the row.

Use Kitchener or Tubular method to bind-off stitches.

Left Mitt

Follow all instructions for right mitt except use the Left Mitt Chart for colorwork. The two mitts are identical except that the placement and frequency of the “holes” in the honeycomb are different.

Weave in all ends and block to desired shape and size. Don’t worry if they seem too tight prior to blocking; the yarn relaxes nicely and becomes much softer and lighter after blocking.

Now you have some Busy Bee Mitts to go on your (or a friend’s) busy knitting hands!

This pattern is protected under a Creative Commons Attribution-Non-Commercial-Share-Alike License. Pattern may be redistributed but not resold without the author’s permission. Please attribute the author if the pattern is reused or adapted. For more information, visit www.creativecommons.org.