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Pressed Flower Mitts Pattern

By April 28th 2015

mitts pattern

The final, PDF version of this pattern is now available as a free Ravelry Download:

When I first saw Eunny Jang’s Endpaper Mitts and the way that the stranded pattern resembled the endpapers of a book, I recalled the first time I read Proust’s In Search of Lost Time in English as a freshman in college, which inspired me to become a literature major and also to learn French. We read the Modern Library hardcover edition, which had the most wonderful endpaper pattern, diagonal shapes in off-white and a greenish brown. So I thought, why not make gloves that would always remind me of one of my favorite books? And what would an old book be without a flower pressed inside? That was how they became the Pressed Flower Mitts. Aside from the flower itself, which I adapted from a discarded Vouge sweater project, these fingerless gloves differ from Eunny’s wonderful design in that they’re a few inches shorter (I tend to like my gloves either at the wrist or super-long), and the endpaper pattern is more simple. This makes it even more exciting when you open your palms to reveal the outlines of the flower.Yarn:
Spud & Chloë Fine Sock Yarn Color 7803 Dachshund (MC) and 7800 Popcorn (CC)
Yardage: 1 65g skein, 248 yards of each color
Source: Purl Soho (www.purlsoho.com)
NOTES: I’ve also knitted this pattern with Koigu KPM with great results, though Spud & Chloe has the advantages of being a bit lighter since it’s a silk/wool blend and also has great yardage so one skein of each color should be enough to make two pairs of gloves.Gauge:
Small: 32 sts/40 rows to 4″ of Endpaper Pattern
Medium: 30 sts/40 rows to 4″ of Endpaper Pattern
Large: 28 sts/36 rows to 4″ of Endpaper Pattern

For all: set of 5 2.00 mm (US 0) double-pointed needles and,
For Small: set of 5 2.75 mm (US 2) double-pointed needles;
For Medium: set of 5 3.00 mm (US 2*) double-pointed needles;
For Large: set of 5 3.25 mm (US 3) double-pointed needles.
* US 2 needles come in two sizes, so do make sure to check on which size you have prior to knitting. If in doubt, you can order a set of Knitpicks needles in the appropriate size:
While wood needles have more traction and don’t have as much risk of stitches falling off, they are also much easier to break when they are this thin. I prefer to use metal needles up to Size 3 and used metal to make these gloves without any problems.
You’ll also need a stitch holder and tapestry needle.

Size Diagram:

k knit
p purl
m make 1
sl1wyib: slip 1 stitch as if to purl, holding working yarn behind stitch
sl1wyif: slip 1 stitch as if to purl, holding working yarn in front of stitch

Detailed Instructions:

Important Notes:

First, it’s good to familiarize yourself with the Endpaper Pattern, which is a repeating pattern in the round that serves as the main pattern for the back of the hand, and the background pattern for the palm. This is what it looks like in both charted form and in written instructions:

endpaper-patternRow 1: *k1 CC, k2 MC repeat once from*
Row 2: k2 MC, *k1 CC, k1 MC, repeat once from *
Row 3: k1 MC, k1 CC, k3 MC, k1 CC
Row 4: same as Row 1
Row 5: same as Row 3
Row 6: same as Row 2

Second, this pattern will require you to catch long floats in your colorwork. For any part of the pattern that requires more than five stitches in one color, catch the unused yarn so that you don’t end up with long loops in the back of your knitting where your fingers can snag. Methods of float catching vary depending on your knitting method, but here is a tutorial from Nicole Hindes for the most common, with the main yarn on the right hand and the contrast yarn on the left:

And now for the actual instructions:

Right Mitt:

CO 52 stitches in MC onto a single needle using the Italian Tubular Cast-on or your preferred method. Here’s a tutorial on the Italian Cast-on from FluffBuff:

Skip this step if you’re using a different cast-on method. But if using the Italian Tubular Cast-on, work the first two rows flat as follows:
Row 1: *k1, sl1wyif, repeat from* to end
Row 2: *k1, sl1wyib, repeat from* to end

Distribute stitches evenly onto 4 smaller DPN’s, 13 stitches to each needle. If you’re uncomfortable purling to begin a row in DPN’s, you can divide 12 stitches, then 14, then 12, then 14. Join, taking care not to twist yarn.

Next round, *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Continue working in k1, p1 rib for 11 more rounds. Attach CC and change to larger needles. To more easily see the flower pattern, I suggest dividing the first 26 stitches onto two needles, and then the second 26 onto a single needle.

Begin colorwork. This chart shows entire colorwork pattern for the right mitt, indicating the point where you will have to put 19 stitches on a holder for the thumb. Completely dark areas (as opposed to the gray of the MC yarn) indicate blank areas with no stitches). Note that there is a purl in MC at the halfway point and at the end of each row, which creates a false seam that makes the pattern look neater. You will also have to do m1’s as indicated in the chart to increase for the Thumb Gusset.

After completing Row 39 of the chart, work the first 25 stitches of the next row. Then place the next 19 stitches in a holder or use spare yarn (9 stitches plus purl stitch, and 9 stitches on the next needle). Cast on one stitch across gap, then continue knitting chart as written. Knit 25 stitches in chart for the next row then purl the cast-on stitch using MC. Continue purling this stitch using MC for subsequent rows as written in the chart.

After finishing the chart, break off CC and switch to smaller needles.

Rib preparation row: Using MC, *k25, p1 repeat from* once.
Work in k1p1 rib for the next five rows.
Bind-off preparation rows:
Row 1: k1, s1wyif to the end of the row.
Row 2: sl1wyib, p1 to the end of the row.

Use Kitchener or Tubular method to bind-off stitches. An excellent tutorial can be found here:

Thumb Ribbing:
Divide held stitches onto two needles.
Rib preparation row:
Using MC and starting with the stitch after the purl stitch (the 11th stitch), k9 and pick up 3 stitches evenly across gap, then k9 and p1 (22 stitches)

Ribbed Thumb Decrease:
On the next row, *k1, p1 and repeat from * three times more, ssk, p. Put the next stitch onto second needle and k2tog with the next stitch on that needle. *p1, k1 and repeat from * three times more, p1. (20 stitches)
Work in k1p1 rib for the next four rows.

Bind-off preparation rows:
Row 1: k1, s1wyif to the end of the row.
Row 2: sl1wyib, p1 to the end of the row.

Use Kitchener or Tubular method to bind-off stitches.

Left Mitt:

Follow all instructions for right mitt except use the chart below for colorwork. The two mitts are identical except that the Endpaper Pattern side and the Flower Pattern side are reversed for the left glove, and the flower itself is mirrored.


Weave in all ends and block to desired shape and size. Don’t worry if they seem too tight prior to blocking; the yarn relaxes nicely and becomes much softer and lighter after blocking.

Voila ma chérie! You have yourself a pair of Pressed Flower Mitts

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